Tag: bessie ellen

Life on board historic ship Bessie Ellen in Scotland

Bessie Ellen sailing in the Hebrides in full sail

This sailing season we were thrilled to be joined by travel content creators Kim and Del Hogg of Going the Whole Hogg. They jumped on board historic ship Bessie Ellen for a week of island hopping and sailing in the Hebrides. Kim and Del had limited sailing experience, but are keen adventurers, having just returned from an Everest Base Camp trek.

Built in 1904, West Country trading ketch Bessie Ellen celebrates her 120th anniversary in 2024 with a Round Britain Tour. This seemed like the perfect time to welcome Kim and Del on board to get a taste of historic sailing!

Life on board historic ship Bessie Ellen is just as much about the experience of sailing as it is about the destination. From falling asleep to the softly creaking hull, to learning the ropes and taking the helm, even a complete novice can step back in time and experience life at sea as it would have been a century ago.

Owner and skipper Nikki discovered Bessie Ellen in a Danish shipyard in 1991, spending a year restoring her before returning to Plymouth. Nikki’s passion for preserving Bessie Ellen’s important place in maritime history shines through each voyage. As the Hoggs explain, skipper Nikki’s “passion for Bessie Ellen is infectious and she had us all getting stuck in, learning the ropes and being in charge at the helm…. It felt very rewarding to be combining travel and an outdoors experience with actively learning a new skill.” 

Sailing on Bessie Ellen is suitable for all ages and levels of experience – so even if you’ve never set foot on a boat before you’ll soon find your sea legs! Kim and Del wrote an in-depth blog about their experience as novice sailors, you can read their full account below.

READ THE FULL BLOG HERE

For a fully immersive experience, take a look at the Going the Whole Hogg‘s feature length ambient film of historic ship Bessie Ellen below.

Ready to set sail?

If you’d like to experience sailing on historic ship Bessie Ellen, why not join her Round Britain Tour in 2024. This tour will see Bessie Ellen make the journey around the breathtaking coastlines and historic ports of Britain. From the rugged beauty of Cornwall to Scotland’s magical lochs and islands, each voyage unveils the diverse wonders of Britain’s coastal heritage.

The History of the West Country Trading Ketch

Bessie Ellen Full Sail Cornwall

The history of the West Country trading ketch is rather unromantic. There’s no sailing into the sunset or walking the plank here – but that doesn’t make their legacy any less important. West Country trading ketches were the lorries and trucks of their day. Between the mid-19th and early 20th centuries, they carried tonnes of essential cargo like china clay, slate, and coal around the southwest. Usually, they were small, family-run enterprises operating out of ports such as Bideford, Fowey, and Appledore.  West Country trading ketches were complete workhorses. The constant repair and maintenance needed to keep them afloat often meant an ecosystem of chandlers, boatbuilders, merchants, and sailmakers would thrive around small harbours.

What is a West Country Trading Ketch?

A  West Country trading ketch is a two-masted vessel typically around 100 feet (approximately 35 metres) in length. It cuts through the water with a sharp bow and a sweeping, rounded stern. The relatively deep keel provides stability in rough seas. At roughly 20ft (6 metres) across at its widest part, with two deck hatches for fast loading and unloading, West Country trading ketches were the perfect balance of spaciousness and speed. They were strong and nimble enough to conquer even the toughest conditions, but with room to transport between 75-150 tonnes of cargo in their hold. Their traditional rigging consisted of two gaff sails, a topsail, and up to four jib sails attached from the bowsprit. This made them easy to handle with a small crew, often made up of family members. Sailing speed varied but in a beam reach with a good breeze, it wasn’t uncommon to hit eight knots, making cargo delivery swift and efficient.

West Country Trading Ketch Design

The design of the West Country trading ketch was essentially as fast as a sail-powered cargo boat could get before diesel engines and steel hulls took over. They were some of the last commercial vessels to be built from wood. Everything from pitch pine, elm, and oak were in use for the construction of the hull – often a mixture, depending on the price of the raw materials. Trennels, or tree nails, usually made of oak (essentially strong wooden dowels, turned on a lathe) would have been used originally to hold the hull together, but in later designs and in refits, these were replaced with metal.

The history of the West Country Trading Ketch

In their heyday, the fleet of these ketches numbered around 700. However, like many other sail-powered boats, the decline of these ships began with the advent of internal combustion engines at the beginning of the 20th century. Although some were still used as late as the 1960s, many West Country trading ketches ended their working lives during the Second World War. During this period they were moored up in various estuaries and used to hold down barrage balloons which protected ports and harbours from enemy aircraft. Sadly, after the war, there was little money to be made by refurbishing these ships for commercial use, and many were left to rot in shipyards, or on the shores of the estuaries themselves.

West Country Trading Ketches today

The demise of the fleet of West Country trading ketches means that these vessels are now extraordinarily rare – only three remain in the UK. Venturesail are thrilled to be offering charters on Bessie Ellen, a West Country trading ketch whose history stretches back nearly 120 years. Her working years all began with a cargo of manure on her maiden voyage from Plymouth to Bideford in 1907. Bessie Ellen then worked through both World Wars, and her long history at sea has earned her a place on the National Historic Ships Register. Refurbished by owner and skipper Nikki Alford in the early 2000s, there’s nary a winch in sight and all sail handling is done by hand. Happily, though, the cargo hold has been converted into a comfortable main cabin with private bunks so you can relax after a day hoisting halyards and helming (as well as enjoying the stunning scenery of her sailing destinations).

Step back in time and experience the maritime history of these beautiful vessels for yourself with a voyage on Bessie Ellen.

Jump Aboard A Sailing Holiday In Scotland On The Bessie Ellen

Gin and tonic on board Bessie Ellen in Scotland

With a staggering 10,250 miles of coastline, Scotland and its islands provide an unparalleled playground for every sailor – from complete novices to the most seasoned skippers. The wild west coast, in particular, boasts fjord-like sea lochs punctuated by mountainous promontories, providing both much-needed shelter and, at times, their very own weather systems. 

A land of opportunity and unique experiences, with hosts as friendly as they are passionate about their sensational homeland, Scotland offers something for everyone – from music festivals, history and diverse wildlife to unrationed adrenaline, breath-taking vistas and the world’s finest whisky.

Arriving in Style

Stunning scenery is sure to dazzle visitors arriving by air, road, rail or sea – but catching one’s very first glimpses of Scotland’s enchanting landscapes from the water guarantees the most beautiful bypass to traffic, trains and tourist traps. Add to this an enormous sense of accomplishment for mastering some of the most challenging British waters and spine-tingling anticipation for the rich bounty awaiting you, and your arrival will be all the sweeter.

As the days grow longer, ‘A Sailor’s Voyage to Scotland’ on the Bessie Ellen offers a fantastic opportunity to arrive in Scotland under sail, taking in the country’s unrivalled beauty from a traditional ship. Departing from Fowey in Cornwall, sailors can soak up the gradual changes in landscape from the West Country all the way up to Scotland’s wonderful west coast while clocking up 11 days’ worth of nautical miles and an abundance of open water sailing experience, both by day and by night. 

Bessie Ellen in Hebrides

Beats a Bothy

Walkers in Scotland traditionally break for the night in a humble bothy – a simple shelter from the elements, often without any facilities whatsoever – but the crew of the Bessie Ellen can retreat to their cosy berths to recuperate after a day well spent. Those on night watch need not feel hard done by; navigating the wide-open sea by starlight provides the ultimate consolation prize. Better still, Bessie Ellen is fully catered at breakfast, lunch and dinner – and for snacks and drinks too. 

Passage Plan

Peel Harbour on the Isle of Man provides the first port of call (and an abundance of world famous smoked kippers) before Bessie Ellen sets sail once again through the North Channel, past the Isle of Islay and the narrow strait of Coryvrekkan and calling in on the islands of Colonsay or Jura (subject to the prevailing weather conditions, of course). Sailors can steady their sea legs once and for all at their destination, Oban, before soaking up all that mainland Scotland has to offer. 

Oban itself makes for an unforgettable introduction to Scotland. Taking its name from the Gaelic for ‘little bay’, Oban is nestled within miles of dramatic coastline and scenic countryside, providing a gateway not only to the Hebrides but to castles, gardens, galleries, independent shops, a distillery and even a chocolate factory. Its coves and rich sea life provide the ultimate reward at the end of a lengthy voyage, with the most magical west-facing sunsets as the lengthening days draw to a close. 

Oban marina
Oban marina

The First Visit of Many

Little wonder, then, that Scotland lies at every skipper’s heart. The weather might keep the masses at bay – but ensures that no sailor ever becomes a stranger to this instantly and reassuringly familiar nation.

Bessie Ellen full sail
Bessie Ellen

Take a look inside this classic tall ship, and be inspired to take your first sailing holiday in Scotland. 

Sailing around the Isle of Skye

Hiker on the Isle of Skye

Situated on the West coast of Scotland, the Isle of Skye is a popular island destination for the nature-loving traveller. From rolling hill hikes, mountain climbs, sea-shore wanders and wonderful wildlife spotting, it’s easy to see why visitors return year on year.

Visit Skye

Featured in many poems and folk songs, Skye is the largest island in the Hebrides and arguably one of the most beautiful. The Cullin Ridge makes the backbone of the island; 12 km of dramatic peaks and troughs that only the most experienced outdoor enthusiasts should attempt to traverse. There is however, plenty more exploring to be done, from Viking ruins to sections of dramatic coastal walking.

A sailing holiday in Scotland is a great way to explore Skye’s diverse coastline. Its peninsula-based shape is large enough to have different levels of precipitation from one end to the other, making sure that there will be a sheltered anchorage somewhere nearby. There is always something to see from the water too, so grab a pair of binoculars when you take a break from rope-work.

Wildlife watching on Skye

Wildlife in Skye is rife, and many native maritime invertebrate species are critical to other local fauna, which include salmon and sea otters, among other bird-life. Red deer stroll the hills while Sea Eagles soar the coast catching Salmon in race with the seals. Dolphins are often seen in wonder swimming in the wake of the bow and the North part of the coast has been known to be part of a whale migratory route so keep your binoculars to hand.

Skye is home around 10% of the 100,000 or so island inhabitants in Scotland, making it one of the more populous islands. Crofters still work the land here, an ancient way of living which is no longer as profitable as working for tertiary industry, hence the rapid decline in croft numbers– yet a bold few still persevere. However, ancient fishing trade continues to thrive and is based in Portree, Skye’s main port. Your skipper might decide to pick up something delicious for dinner, fresh off the boats that come in each day. Despite the larger population of the island, exploring the coast by boat takes you far away from the busy ports and main towns. Discover tranquil bays only accessible by boat and walk through sleepy villages with artists studios and local farm shops.

VentureSail offer a range of skippered sailing holidays to Scotland and Skye throughout the summer season.

Skye Old Man of Storr

Sailing to St. Kilda

Hirta and dun at St. Kilda

St Kilda

Shrouded in mystery and legend, the real tale of St Kilda is, in reality, more melancholic. The small population of this group of islands was evacuated in 1930 due to multiple reasons such as crop failure, famine, disease, war and simply being at the mercy of the weather for months on end. A ghost town remains. However, every cloud is lined with silver, and today St Kilda is a huge nature reserve, home to a diverse fauna and flora including some endemic species such as the St Kilda Field mouse and the St Kilda Wren.

The islands lie about 40 miles from North Uist and are thence the most westerly archipelago in the Hebrides. VentureSail runs many trips to this nature reserve over the summer. We think the perfect way to take in the hopelessly beautiful scenery and spot the best wildlife, both terrestrial and maritime, is by boat. Take a look at our sailing schedule to see when you can climb aboard.

welcome to st kilda

The island at the edge of the world

Wanderlust journalist, Phoebe Smith, earns her way with Bessie Ellen to the remote island of St Kilda. Read her full article about her adventure as she experiences first hand the elements that may, or may not, allow her passage to this magical place.